Gene Hall, a Santa Cruz, California native, grew up in the beach, boardwalk, and pier area. Early adventures led to long safaris. With his first car, he explored north and as far south as Baja, Mexico. Hilarious adventures with friends. Then two months after turning 18, he flew to Hawaii for three months after earning money as a busboy. He would become one of surfing’s legends, with adventures that followed in the coming years. Marriage to his beautiful girlfriend, and the birth of his first son, leading him to emigrate with his new family to Australia and more exciting adventures.
View MoreThis is not just a collection of surf stories but also a candid and accurate account of events of decades past. Gene Hall narrates his experiences in Hawaii and Australia that will blow you away and get you amused by one of the surfing legends. The First Wave of Foam and Fiberglass is a book that readers should not miss.
Recognized as one of surfing’s earliest performers in 1962, filmed by surf moviemakers John Severson, Bruce Brown and others. Gene Hall presents his history and experiences of the past to the present.
The First Wave of Foam and Fiberglass… I just can’t explain it. Anybody who is not too hoary for apple juice and cookies is not too hoary for Mr. Gene! I just could not put this admirable biography down!
First Wave of Foam and Fiberglass is a conclusive biography of Gene Hall, bringing to attention the span of his entire life with simplicity, warmth, and power. I wish I could meet him in person just to sense that thrill and excitement.
Gene Hall’s core virtue is kind-heartedness. Through the author’s own example, I myself try to be virtuous and positive. There is nothing that this man wouldn’t do if he were young in this generation. He’s a history-maker.
The author did an exceptional job producing a fantastic read, filled with fine points that will stay with the reader. We certainly need this memoir to help keep Gene Hall’s work and outlook active.
